Plant care, installation etc.

Call us anytime if you need help planting, transplanting, sick plants etc.



To plant shrubs and trees

Late fall and early spring are considered ideal planting times because roots will have more time to grow into the surrounding soil before the stress due to new foliage growth and high temperatures occurs. Tilling in soil admen ants to improve aeration and drainage is essential for satisfactory plant growth. The current trend for large planting beds as found in new homes or land developments (where soil is usually very poor) is to plant trees and shrubs in large beds. Preparation of an entire bed is preferred over preparing individual holes since the roots will have a larger area to grow before they encounter native soil that might be compacted and poorly aerated. Ideally, for most plantings the hole(s) should not be dug any deeper than the root ball. We suggest digging holes twice as wide as the root ball and not as deep. Maybe one to two inches of the root ball should be above soil level. If you dig too deep, firm the bottom of the hole to reduce settling. Since most new roots will grow horizontally from the side of the root ball, soil firmed at the bottom of the hole will not substantially affect root growth. Widening the planting hole is an ideal way to enhance plant growth. Always pick the plant up by the root ball never by the trunk or stem (can cause damage to fine root hairs). Soil that was removed from the hole should be used to refill the hole along with some good compost and starter fertilizer. Excessive water can accumulate in the bottom of the hole, which can lead to root suffocation or root rot development. Firm the soil around the root ball, however, is sure not to use excessive force since soil compaction should be avoided. After a tree or shrub has been planted, construct a ring of soil 2 to 3 inches high to form a water basin at the outside edge of the hole (plants in beds probably will not require a water basin). The water basin does not need to be a permanent fixture and can be removed after the plants become established. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch over the planting hole. The mulch will help maintain moisture and reduce fluctuations in soil temperature.

Don't forget to fertilize your tree and shrubs each season - they need to eat also. We see that many homeowners will treat their lawns several times a year but almost never feed their trees and shrubs.


Compost Tips:


The good news is that it's very easy to compost in a small space. Even if all you have is a patio or balcony, you can use this method of making compost in a trash can. And, if you need to compost on the sly, no one will be the wiser---they'll just see another trash can.

To start out composting, purchase the most inexpensive 32 gallon or larger plastic garbage can you can find. Make sure it has a lid. If rats are a problem in your area, consider purchasing a metal trash can. Then, using a two to three-inch hole saw bit and a drill, drill holes all the way around the trash can (lid, bottom, and sides) six to twelve inches apart. Cover these holes with window screening. Good strong duct tape or epoxy will work. Put your trash can composter in a convenient place. If possible, raise it up on a couple of bricks to get even more air circulation to the contents of the trash can composter.


So, what do you put into your trash can composter? Fruit and vegetable peels and cores


  1. Leftover cooked veggies (as long as they don't have salt or butter on them)

  2. Produce that's past its prime

  3. Coffee grounds

  4. Tea leaves and tea bags

  5. Egg shells

  6. Shredded newspaper

  7. Weeds, leaves, and spent flowers from the garden

Never add meat or dairy to the composter, as it will spoil (and smell!) and attract pests. Besides that, your compost could then harbor harmful bacteria that could cause illness. It is a good idea, however, to add a shovelful of garden soil to your compost. The soil contains all kinds of microorganisms which will consume the contents of your compost and break it down. If you don't have access to garden soil, don't worry. You'll still get compost, but it will take a little longer.

Most books and articles about composting recommend using specific ratios of “green” and “brown” materials to make perfect compost. You may be able to get away with ignoring ratios if you have a large pile, but in a closed system like this, paying attention to the ratios of your materials is important. If you have too many “greens,” such as fruit and veggie peels, weeds, and grass clippings, the pile will stay too wet and will start to smell. If you have too many “browns,” such as leaves, small twigs, shredded paper, and coffee grounds, the pile will just kind of sit there. Try for a ratio of at least 4:1 of browns to greens. I've seen recommendations as high as 25:1, but the 4:1 ratio works well in my trash can composter.

In addition to a proper ratio of materials, you'll also need to make sure that your compost stays moist, but not wet. In general, your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Any wetter than that, and it will start to smell because it has become anaerobic, meaning oxygen can't get to parts of the pile. If your pile dries out, it will still break down eventually, but it will take much, much longer than it should.

You'll also need to keep your compost aerated. In a traditional pile, this is done by digging into the pile and turning the contents every week or two. You can aerate your trash can composter by simply laying it on its side and rolling it around a few times. Do this once or twice a week, and you should have finished compost in two to four weeks.

*Trash can composter courtesy of Anthony at The Compost Bin.


 

BEST TIME TO WATER -

between 5 a.m. and 10 a.m.

Your new trees, shrubs, and/or perennials require special attention for at least one month after planting, until the root systems get a chance to grow out into the surrounding soil. A little vigilance in ensuring that each plant receives its full allotment of water during this time is the single most important factor in determining the future success of your plants. Keep in mind that the root balls of your new plants will dry out just like a houseplant even though the surrounding soil appears wet. The best way to check the roots is to pull away the mulch from the stem of the plant and use your finger to scrape down an inch or two directly into the root ball to feel for dryness.

Sprinkler systems, even the best ones, will water some areas better than others. After your landscape has had time for the plant roots to spread out and intermingle (at least 6 weeks after planting), this unevenness in sprinkler coverage is not a major problem. But when the plants have just been installed, some plants may not receive enough water from the sprinklers to survive the critical first few weeks. For this reason it is imperative that you make frequent (daily to every second day) inspections of your landscape so you can spot plants that may be dry, and water them by hand to give them the opportunity to grow roots into areas that get more water.

Following the guidelines below as a supplement to your sprinkler system will help integrate your plants quickly into the landscape:


A. Shrubs and Perennials - by hand with hose and/or bucket

  1. First week - Water every 2 days for shrubs and perennials in full sun, every 3-4 days if in shade. Under extremely hot or windy conditions in full sun, you may need to water every day. Treat them like houseplants and aim the hose directly into the root ball. Make mental notes of areas that seem to need extra attention.

  2. Next two weeks - Water your extra-attention areas as above. For the areas that are not a problem, water once a week just to be sure.

  3. After 3 weeks - Your new shrubs should be somewhat established. Continue to water your extra-attention plants once a week by hand until the end of the season as a supplement to your sprinkler system.

B. Trees and Large Shrubs - by hand with hose or bucket

  1. First two weeks - Water by placing the hose directly on the root ball, then turning on the faucet so that the water comes out in a slow trickle. Let it trickle for 1/2 -1 hour for each plant. The larger the tree and the more exposed it is to wind and sun, the more time needed. Look for special-attention plants. Repeat every 5-7 days depending on weather and sunlight conditions.

  2. Next four weeks - Water twice as above during this period.

  3. After six weeks - Water those special-attention plants during extended periods of no rainfall occasionally as above until the end of December.

For new garden beds
Incorporate one to two 40-pound bags of Compost or every 10 square feet. Till into the soil to a depth of approximately 6 inches.

For established gardens
Spread Compost to a depth of approximately 2 inches. Where possible, rake into garden soil.

To revive lawns and reduce thatch
Once or twice a year, spread or broadcast a 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch layer of Compost over your lawn. This will add nutrients and organic matter and help stimulate beneficial microbial and biological activity. Water daily, and the compost will filter through the lawn.